Pull yourself onto the first flake and sink your fingers deep into the crevice behind it. Now step higher, reach for holds on the right wall, fix some gear into the crack above. The climb steepens. Work your feet higher, place a cam in the crack, use the fantastic friction for your feet, step high into the bottom of the crack – commitment. Another piece of gear perhaps, but you will have to go for the move to reach the top of the crack. It is briefly strenuous and exposed, followed by enormous jugs and flakes to the top. You have succeeded on Flake Crack at Kyloe Out of the Woods, the best Severe in The County?
What follows has been in my head for years. Partly inspired by articles debating ‘The Best E1 in The County’ and ‘The Best HVS in The County’ etc. in the NMC Newsletter (long before the days of County Climber), as well as the discussions we all have comparing the merits of different routes, the question has come back to me again and again: what is the best Severe in Northumberland? There are so many excellent routes at this grade in the County, including many I have repeated over and again. It is an accessible grade but still a good challenge. So which is the best one? Here are my top ten, approximately in order, and a few more to think about.
While graded only Mild Severe, Sunset became considerably harder to start after a hold disappeared some years ago. The real challenge begins with the bridging moves up the corner at half height, followed by an airy traverse left to the perched blocks below the top. This is undoubtedly a classic route: clean rock, exposure and a satisfyingly direct line. Catch it late on a summer evening; the name is perfect.
You may consider this a surprising choice but the route will do wonders for your ego if Severe is your regular grade. Climb easily up a square block to a recess beneath an overhang that surely won’t go at the grade of Severe. Excellent cams will give you the confidence to move left and get your feet high. Still feeling unlikely at the grade, reach through to flutings over the top, select the right one and make an athletic move to finish. A gymnastic delight in a quiet location.
Is this the most frequently climbed route in Northumberland? It might be. The obvious deep crack cannot be ignored, easy moves lead up to the obvious bulge. Continue with the crack or dance left up the slabs. A couple of delicate, pinchy moves take you to a wide crack and an awkward, slopey finish. The Plonka’s appeal is the quality of the rock, the delightful setting, with a gnarly oak at the top and a magnificent view to the distant Cheviots and, of course, the name! This is a route that never disappoints.
Although escapable at half height, Wall and Crack gives a route following an enticing line with a finish that makes you work hard to the very end. The lower flake crack is more strenuous to start than it looks but soon gives way to a juggy pull onto the ledge. Now move right until you are forced into a steep corner. Bridge up this until you reach the final, steep crack. Either handjam the crack or move right to a short arête. There are much fiercer routes on offer at Back Bowden but Wall and Crack is still a good test of your commitment.
You will struggle to find Severes at The Wanneys but Idiot’s Delight is a gem, albeit right at the top of the grade. Don’t be put off by the green slab which gets you started. Soon your way is blocked directly above and it is now apparent that only steep climbing will get you out of here. First make a bold traverse to the left to an exposed nose. Now the crux- a high, steep step, takes you onto more amenable holds to finish. Pull through onto steep grass and enjoy the exhilaration which comes with finishing any route at Great Wanney.
A fantastic route which requires strength, boldness and technique. Three routes at this point on the crag have almost identical starts: Grovel Groove, The Scoop, Black and Tan. A bold layback move takes you onto a steep, angular flake. Feet high and another strenuous pull places you beneath the crux moves. Black and Tan can be a daunting route because it is not until this point that you will be able to place gear. No more to be found until the easier ground higher up. You will get a bomb-proof nut, however. Move purposefully up and make a delicate traverse to the right. Once you reach the ramp you have virtually done the route. The finish is on excellent holds and gear, up a broadening groove. One of Bowden’s many superb offerings.
Kyloe has so many excellent Severes. I have chosen two and Deception Crack has deceived me on many an occasion. Technical climbing is required, probably the reason for my frequent downfalls on this route. The crack is at the back of a deep, V-shaped groove. Go into the crack to place gear, then keep out! The secret of this climb is to bridge delicately using small holds at the edges of the V-groove. Eventually you will be able to step into the groove and stand on a good ledge at half height. The upper half of the climb and the finish are steep, strenuous but on more positive holds. You know you have achieved something when you top out on Deception Crack, not a soft touch by any stretch of the imagination.
The Henhole Crag is a delight, shared by few these days. On a summer’s day, high on a long route, the College Burn far below, a curlew calling in the blue above, this wild location on the North side of Cheviot, is one of Northumberland’s best kept climbing secrets – lonely and idyllic. Here you will still find thick, lush grass at the foot of the crag and little wear on the holds to identify your route.
College Grooves is a thirty three metre route, undercut to give a tricky start, then easing into a long and committing, steep slab of Cheviot Granite with some long reaches but plenty of gear and a good feel of exposure as you near the top. The rock may surprise you on a first visit to the crag; blocky and compact and reminiscent in places of the Lake District. However, take care. Loose rock is possible on what is effectively a mountain crag.
A journey to The Henhole needs planning. Make the effort. College Grooves is an excellent route in a fabulous location.
I have already described this route and it has long been one of my favourites. In the heat of summer with the heady scent of bracken like a drug, sun beating down as you approach the crag, anticipation building, you could spend the whole day climbing wonderful Severes at Kyloe. Enjoy each one for its unique character and savour Flake Crack, a really satisfying route. Choosing one route to give the accolade of the best in the County is quite a task. Flake Crack comes very close but, in my humble opinion, there is one route which just shades it.
Although the Whin Sill crags are no longer so popular, Main Wall is a route you simply must do. Its historical significance is a good reason (FA around a century ago, probably by Marcus Beresford Heywood and friends) but a much better one is the quality of the climbing. The initial wall is steep and intimidating. Indeed, the crux comes after just fifteen metres where a long stretch and a hold that has always moved are utilised to reach the right hand side of the buttress. Climb up the right flank and follow a series of typical Crag Lough moves, using ledges and cracks to gain height, with space beneath your feet and, most likely, a pair of swans way below you on the Lough.
As you approach the top of the route, the final ledge is inside a narrowing chimney, where a bit of a wriggle is needed to make progress. Here I once disturbed a nesting jackdaw which was not pleased to see me. Pull through to finish on the Roman Wall itself, admire the magnificent view and take pleasure in completing ‘The Best Severe in the County’.
Crag Lough – Hadrian’s Buttress, Peel Crag – Grooves, The Wanneys – Main Wall, Coe Crag – Raven’s Buttress, Black Walter Chimney, Selby’s Cove –Holly Tree Wall, Back Bowden – Straight Crack, Bowden Doors – Sue, Kyloe Crag – Saint’s Progress, Cloister Wall, Deception Wall, Chris’s Arete, Jack Rock – High Board
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